Page 25 - FoodFocusThailand No.156 March 2019
P. 25

SPECIAL FOCUS


                  แห่งแคว้น Franconia กล่าว “และกรณีของเรานับว่ามีความส�าคัญเป็นพิเศษกับลูกค้า                 กับธุรกิจการค้าเนื้อสัตว์ด้วย หากคุณไม่ปรับตัวให้ทันกับเหตุการณ์…
                  ถึงแม้ลูกค้าของเราจะอยู่ไกลบ้านก็ตาม พวกเขาก็ยังคงคิดถึงความเป็นเอกลักษณ์และ          เข็มนาฬิกาจะเดินผ่านคุณไปอย่างแน่นอน”
                  ความพิเศษในสไตล์ของ Franconia” ร้าน Strobel ได้ผสมผสานภาพลักษณ์แบบดั้งเดิม
                  ของธุรกิจเข้ากับแง่มุมสมัยใหม่ซึ่งเหมาะสมกับภูมิภาค อย่างเช่น การผลิตสินค้าจากหมู
                  ที่เลี้ยงด้วยฟาง (Straw-reared pigs) และสินค้าจากวัวที่เลี้ยงในทุ่ง (Grazing cattle)
                  บุทเชอร์ระดับเทพรายนี้ไม่เชื่อว่าเทรนด์จะเป็นเรื่องทั่วๆ ไป “โครงสร้างของเยอรมนี
                  มีความหลากหลายมาก เราสามารถจัดล�าดับความส�าคัญของเทรนด์ต่างๆ ได้ ถ้าได้
                  มีการพูดคุยเป็นรายบุคคล ทั้งกับเกษตรกรผู้เลี้ยงสัตว์และกับลูกค้า” ภาพรวมของ
                  อุตสาหกรรมจะได้ประโยชน์จากสิ่งเหล่านี้ อะไรก็ตามที่เป็นจริงส�าหรับธุรกิจอื่นๆ จะจริง



                  Meat Trends


                  “If you don’t move with the times…”





                 The butcher’s trade, if it is to be successful,         Where it all happens
                 must represent both tradition and contemporary          Mobile sales are getting a new look in the shape of street food. In 2017
                                                                         Jürgen Pum, master butcher from Freiburg, bought a truck. He says,
                 developments. The best recipe is a mixture of clear     “At the start it was meant just for party service; now we are very
                 expertise in meat and sausage products, technological   frequently at festivals. Thus for us the food truck has become a major
                 background and new ideas.                               element of our business.” Jürgen Pum has significantly extended the
                                                                         refrigerated logistics of the butcher’s trade. When compared with the
                                                                         majority of food truckers, as a butcher he sees himself as having a
                    The trend towards outstanding quality in the butcher’s trade is
                 undiminished. Through its products the trade is differentiating itself   definite  advantage.  “We  have  a  kitchen,  we  have  expertise  and
                                                                         experience  in  party  service.”  He  underlines  this  with  high-quality
                 from the mass market. The consumers are interested and require   creations, such as his “ox-cheek burger.”
                 transparency.                                             If opening times are not long enough, there are not enough staff,
                 High quality, not average                               or the business environment allows, vending machines provide
                 It is the individual and authentic that counts, for instance the regional   shopping on a 24-hour basis. Or a “drive-in”, as run by gourmet
                 origin of the animals, unusual breeds or particular types of breeding   butcher’s Zehetner in Dietach (Steyr) in Upper Austria, during normal
                 and feed. What applies to meat applies to sausage, too. The trend is   opening times. Managing director Siegfried Zehetner explains: “We
                 towards clear and unique recipes, true to the motto “less is more.”   have  been  running  the  first  butcher’s  drive-in  for  ten  years  now,
                    Master butcher Jörg Erchinger from Berlin is known there as one   enabling everyone to buy a snack, create a menu or collect a pre-order
                 of the first who made a point of “gluten-free” products. He says: “Our   while sitting in their car. Mothers, who had their children asleep in the
                 focus is on what the customer wants. And so I have revised all recipes,   car, were some of the first customers. Treated as just an advertising
                 so that the sausages are gluten-free, and also otherwise without   gimmick when we started, this idea has enabled us to gain great
                 glutamate. Our customers appreciate that.”              attention and considerable recognition.”
                    Featuring striking products such as its “bone broth”, a broth made   “An online shop is  part of the overall online package, and definitely
                 of bones, Ebert Butcher’s and Delicatessen from Frankfurt am Main   part of a modern butcher’s business”, says Rüdiger Strobel of Strobel
                 has attracted a good deal of attention. Inga Ebert says: “We created   country butchers of Selbitz in Franconia, “and also in our case it is
                 this fine bone broth in 2017 from just five ingredients. A healthy drink,   particularly important for customers who, though far from home, don’t
                 which you can enjoy hot or cold, and is just full of vital nutrients! The   want to do without their Franconian specialities.” Strobel country
                 trend has already made itself felt in the USA, and German start-ups   butchers combine the traditional image of a no throw-away processing
                 have also already been offering bone broth. But who knows how to   business with modern aspects which fit the region, such as produce
                 make it if not we butchers? We have the infrastructure – boilers, for   from straw-reared pigs and grazing cattle. This master butcher does
                 instance – and we have the ingredients.”                not believe there are any general trends: “The structures in Germany
                                                                         are too various. We can score well when it comes to personal contacts
                 The question of time                                    – with the farmers as meat producers and with the customers.” The
                 Even  if  convenience  food  is  not  always  a  positive  idea  among   image of the industry as a whole
                 customers, dishes which can be quickly prepared continue to be   benefits from this. And what is true
                 popular.  What  is  new  is  the  demand  that  such  foods  should  be   of other businesses is
                 extremely good and healthy to eat. Thus sous vide cooking has gained   true of the butcher’s
                 a  firm  foothold  among  meat  gourmets  and  offers  butchers  an   trade: “If you don’t
                 opportunity to establish a market with particular cuts, marinades or   move with the
                 individually prepared dishes. Ready-to-cook dishes from butcher’s   times, the
                 shops are also popular. They are quite different from those products   times will pass
                 with which the customer is familiar in retail outlets and gain their   you by.”
                 reputation through their authenticity and “the taste of home.”


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